Henry giesler



I UNITED STATES PATENT Prion.

HENRY GIESLER, OF MOTJSHEIM, GERMANY.

MANUFACTURE OFtMlXED OR PARTY-COLORED FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 593,883, dated November 16, 1897.

Application filed May 8,1897. Serial No. 635,722. (Specimens) Patented in GermanyMarch 27, 1896, No. 89,037, and in France June 3, 1896, No. 256,919.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HENRY GIEsLER, dyer,

' a subject of the Emperor of Germany, residin g of Molsheim, Alsace, in the Empire of Germany, have invented certain Improvements in the Manufacture of Mixed or Party-Golored Fabrics, (for which I have obtained patents in Germany, No. 89,037, dated March 27, 1896, and in France, No. 256,919, dated June 3, 1896,) of which the following is a specification.

My invention is applicable to fabrics of any description-such as those made of wool, cotton, silk, or mohair, or mixtures thereof,'for example-and whether the said fabrics have or have not been bleached, dyed, orsubjected to other preparatory processes-such as pile cutting or shearing, singeing, steaming, washing, fullin g, treating withchlorin, or the likeand whether the fabrics be woven from plain or from colored threads.

According to my invention I apply either upon one side or upon both sides of the fabric either dyestuffs 'or mordants or both dyestuifs and mordants by means of an impressing or printing operation, which may be applied by any well-known devicesuch, for instance, as pressure rollers or blocks or the like. In thus impressing or printing the fabrics one design or a number of designs may be employed,'which, however, should be as little pronounced or marked as possible, they preferably consisting of minute dots, streaks, or similar irregularly-disposed groundwork. The same design may be applied in the same or different colors to both sides of the fabric, or-a different design may be used for each side if both sides are to be treated. Between the lines or figures of the design so impressed or printed the original color of the fabric should remain conspicuously Visible. The desired graduations of shades are obtained either by diluting the coloring-matter or by more or less deeply engraving the design on the roller or printing-plate. Fast colors only should be used, and they should be carefully fixed or ingrained, which can be done by steaming. This process must be carried out very slowly and extended over a somewhat long period, so that the colors may not be damaged by the subsequent treatment to under treatment have been found incapable of even resisting mere washing for any length of time.

The next stage of the process consists in alterin g the relative positions of the component fibers of the fabric, which can be effected by turning or twisting them around or partly around, so as to efface or tone down the sharp edges of the impressed or printed design, and thereby to impart to the fabric the appearance of a fabric woven from fibers of different colors or from party-colored fibers. This object may be attained either by energetic-and long-continued washing in a washing-machine fitted with pressing or squeezing rollers, or, in order to enhance the effect, the same process may be performed in a fulling-machine, or by a combination of two or more of these operations, or. by other manipulation which will attain the object in View.

The new process according to this invention effects a result opposite to that which hitherto has been attained in cloth-printing works, where it has been the object hitherto to obtain images or designs as sharply defined as possible.

A further important difference between my process and the various stuff-printing processes heretofore applied to animal fiber is that these latter processes were generally applicable to pieces of woolen muslin and woolen flannel limited to a width of eighty centimeters, the materials being printed on one side only. q

It is well known that every fabric presents more or less serious defects in the weaving and that these defects generally become apparent in longitudinal stripes or streaks, they being caused, as a rule, by inequalities in the yarn employed or by weft-threads which are either thinner or thicker than the standard. To avoid rendering these deficiencies still more marked or conspicuous than they already are, care should be taken in impressing or printing to avoid designs which extend parallel to either the weft or the warp.

By my improved process a piece of fabric can have imparted to it the appearance of a fabric woven in other and various ways.

lines of the web and those of the design inter sect at right angles, then the result will be a grained or granite effect, or should the same twill web have a checkered design printed on it then the twill weaving will become invisible and the texture be similar in appearance to that of canvas.

A material of good appearance has been obtained from fibers prepared by printing transverse colored stripes on the slnbbing before they are spun. The fibers are then by repeated stretching displaced in relation to each other,so that a mixture is obtain ed which is spun into yarn which is known by the name of its inventor, Vigoureux.

By means of the process hereinabove described all the Vigoureux effects may be produced with particular advantage, for while, on the one hand, all the disadvantages of the method of manufacture hitherto adopted are obviated,the effects arrived at are,on the other hand, even more beautiful and more clearly defined than those produced by the Vi gourcux process.

Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is 1. The herein-described process of impartin g to fabrics the appearance of a woven fabric of different or party-colored fibers, consisting in impressing or printing a design on the fabric, fixing said design thereon and then distorting the fibers by displacing, turning or twisting them so as to destroy the sharp lines of the design, substantially as set forth.

2. As a new article of manufacture, a textile fabric having the design impressed or printed thereon and havingits fibers distorted by displacing, turning or twisting them after being printed, to get the appearance of a mixed woven fabric or one formed from fibers dyed with various colors before weaving, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

, HENRY GIESLER.

In presence of ERNEST TI-IERON, IIENRY GIESLER. 

